第203回：衣带渐宽终不后悔，为伊消得俩人憔悴
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第203回：衣带渐宽终不后悔，为伊消得俩人憔悴
20151009因为昨晚先锋电脑突然出现故障，导致我的重要文件凭空消失，怎么都无法恢复，真是损失惨重，其实昨天早上我就预感到资料会丢失，我还提醒自己做好备份，但最后不幸的事情还是发生了，真是浪费生命。这件事导致我昨天睡得比较晚，今天却起来得非常早，洗漱完毕就办理退房，然后我走到外面去，看到几俩轿车停在门口，但没有看到昨天那位司机，正准备回头返回酒店大堂时，一个穿体桖衫的黑人跑了过来，
我仔细一看，赫然就是昨天的司机，只是他换了件衣服，他从马路对面跑过来，我刚才还以为站在酒店门口的几个黑人是司机，因为在我们眼里，黑人都长得差不多。我们忙背着大包过马路，然后上了司机的车，他启动发动机就上路了，没走多久又堵车，这时我再次发现这条主干道上的快速公交车工程居然是中国援建的，真实大手笔。路上有很多日本人捐赠的小巴士，附近有一座在建的教堂，不久汽车拐弯到了一个车站，
远远能看到中国人开的运输公司，叫新动力，经历十多年的挫败，中国人也开始在非洲走向正规经营的道路了，这是好事。新动力公司旁边是达累斯快速运输公司，这个车站看上去很新，结果我们下车后，旁边大巴上的司机检查我的车票，然后说这个车站不是我要找的汽车站，但我刚才都给了司机10500先令，这时司机也发现搞错地方了，忙叫我们重新上车，再次开到旁边几公里外的汽车总站，那里人真多，又乱又脏，跟印度的汽车站有得一拼了。非洲人喜欢早起，凌晨就能看到很多非洲人在大街上走动了，商贩特别多，
可能是工作机会太少，人口爆炸，到处是拿着东西在街道上售卖的。司机转个弯都花费了十多分钟，不久汽车行驶到汽车站里面，我们进场后给了司机13500先令，含小费和进场费，这个叫乌本够的汽车站非常大，各种新旧大巴停在土地上，我们找到了达累斯快速运输公司的巴士，还算较新的，说是有空调，但从来没有开过，我们坐在38和39号座位，车上蚊子非常多，本地人根本不怕蚊子咬的，我们忙拿出驱蚊水喷，座椅还是非常干净的，
背椅上有白色的枕套，汽车上安装了液晶电视，不久我下车去找厕所，车站停了很多红色大巴(Abood)，很多商贩在晃悠，乞力马扎罗山运输公司的大巴也停在旁边，远处是一栋建筑，上面是巨幅选举广场，穿过建筑，继续往进走，才找到一个厕所，非常简陋，我上完厕所又跑回到大巴上，到了七点汽车就启动了，我放眼望去，除了我们俩和一位欧美独身的女孩，其他全是黑人。
汽车非常缓慢地开出车站，旁边停着一台普通的大巴(Shambalai Express)，正在上车的全是黑人，这种蓝色的汽车正差劲了。放眼望去，非洲男人不是光头就是短平头，都长得非常憨厚。不久经过交通管制中心的铁皮房(Ubongo Traffic Police)，一位穆斯林少女坐在门口，旁边是一巨大的树，车站外面全是三轮车和小汽车，好不容易出了汽车站，大巴开始沿主道行驶，能看到一些传统的卡车，后面拖着两个车箱的那种，汽车行驶40分钟后又在郊区的一个车站停车，这时又上来一些乘客，
一群商贩围了上来，都是卖苹果和水的，不久司机终于开空调了，蚊子还是非常多，汽车经过很多村庄，当地村民看到汽车过来就全围过去卖东西了，非洲的菠萝非常巨大，到处是南非最大移动电话运营商沃达丰的广告，酷似中国电信。沿途还经过一些传统的草屋，到处是儿童，都在地上滚，不久道路越来越难走了，前方还出车祸，一辆集装箱卡车侧翻在路边，村民全围上来了，正企图徒手把车推平，
之后经过大片的灌木区域，最后又到达一个村落，很多穿着统一服饰的人开始搞竞选宣传，村民都跑过去凑热闹，可能是在搞投票选举吧，不久又经过大量的铁皮房，大量的社会闲散青年坐在马路旁边发呆，不是说他们懒，也确实没有什么工作机会。汽车继续行驶过另外一些村庄(Chalinze Segeza)，电线杆上也贴着竞选广告，之后我看到了一座非常传统的非洲草屋，一家人在马路边建了一座茅草屋，前面摆放着很多酷似冰箱的白色物品，再前面是很多木材，一个黑人正拿着斧头劈柴，两位女人用头顶着塑料桶走了过来，
旁边是一4000升的黑桶，可能是用来蓄水的，再行驶不久就看到更多的草屋，到了十点左右，汽车停了下来，很多人去上厕所，我们购买了三个苹果，花费3000先令，之后我们上车了，汽车继续行驶，黑妹给我们免费发了两瓶饮料及一些饼干，到了13点20分又停车了，应该到了吃午餐的时间了，我们都下了车，这是一个很大的广场，树下有人可乐瓶的模型，里面是一个小卖部，很多卖水果的商贩，厕所非常干净，还免费，食堂也很干净，我们购买了四个桔子，花费1000先令，很多水果非常奇特，
我都叫不出名字，也有卖菜的地方，旁边还有一栋两层的建筑，鸢说肚子饿了，我们看到当地人都在买一种套餐，如是我们也去凑热闹，购买了牛肉土豆饭，花费5000先令，我们打包后带到汽车上吃，我突然发现另外一位欧美少女什么都没有吃，她就安静地坐在车上，她背个小背包，皮肤白皙，不知道是不是来非洲支教的，不久所有人上车，汽车又开始朝前方行驶，很快到达了山区，但我们并不是走盘山公路，而是继续在平原上走，山脉则位于右侧，
从平原到山脉种植了很多剑麻等农作物，在这里能看到很多泥土垒的房子，屋顶是茅草，非常环保，一些奇异的树上还挂着很多棺材。不久我们看到很多面包树，枝干非常粗，可能是用来储存水的，再行驶不久就看到一处竹子建的房屋，一个非洲人坐在门口，其它都是农田，我们在汽车上吃完非洲牛肉和薯条之后，我又喝了点汽水，然后开始小憩，到了16点50分左右，陆续有部分乘客下车，鸢突然嚷着要上厕所，我也突然感觉肚子疼，似乎无法忍耐了，但大巴上又没有厕所，真是麻烦，
不久我们发现汽车停了下来，如是我们想下车去找厕所，售票员小姐告诉我们不要下车，再等几分钟会给我们安排。约十多分钟后大巴开到一个路口，前面有十几辆货车和大巴正排队准备过磅称重，如是这个时候黑女把我们带下车，一路走到磅秤管理处，借用他们的厕所，鸢先找个洗手间去入厕，我则绕道后面找到另外一个洗手间，关门正准备入厕时，黑女突然推门进来了，原来这厕所都不分男女。我突然想拉肚子了，这是乘坐长途汽车的最大忌讳，我蹲下来上厕所，不久鸢在外面喊我的名字，
她说整车的人都在等我，这让我很尴尬，只能快速解决排泄的问题之后，急忙穿好衣服冲出洗手间，看到达累斯快速运输公司的T171大巴司机正拼命按喇叭，一群黑人探出头来看着我，我忙跑上了汽车，很快大巴就继续行驶，沿途能看到很多群众在热情地参与总统选举。
约半个小时后大巴抵达了摩西镇，正逢街道上在搞选举宣传，街道上一下子涌上来几万群众，都拼命朝候选人的车队挥手，因为我们的大巴是迎着人群在行驶，司机只能拼命按喇叭，一些参与公投的群众开始故意拦着大巴，等大巴一开到身前就马上避开，男女老少都朝我们的大巴挥手。年前基奎特总统表示2015年将充满挑战，特别是10月大选在即，他呼吁坦桑人民保持团结爱国。
坦本地经济学家表示由于主要援助国暂停2014/15财年预算援助，2015年在政府支出方面充满挑战。目前政府在2015年需要应对贫困、毒品、提升人权、治理腐败等挑战。这个非洲国家的群众虽然非常贫困，但民主意识很强，一到选举年，很多乡镇都是全民空巷，大家都跑去参加选举宣传了，
很多候选人还跑到偏远的村子里搞普选宣传，到处是围观的群众。最后汽车终于到了摩西镇车站，我一抬头，就看到了非洲第一峰乞力马扎罗山顶的雪，心情非常激动。
下车后就乘坐出租车到酒店，费时10分钟，费钱10000先令，司机还给我留了电话，我走进狷羚美景旅馆，这个家庭旅馆有10个房间，都带洗手间和蚊帐，我在前台登记时，一个英语非常流利的黑人跟我套近乎，然后推荐我爬乞力马扎罗的旅行团，不久他还跟我介绍很多登山向导的情况，最后他还给我看了名片，此人叫皮右丝(Pius Momburi)，是某个旅行社的董事长，事后我通过网络搜索此人，发现他在寂寞星球等媒体已经被评论过8年左右，此人恶评很多，但居然还能在摩西镇这个镇上混下来，而且还建立了自己的登山网站，不得不说非洲法律真实漏洞百出。
登记完后并没有付款，我们就直接进了102房间，这个地方教堂很多，但也有清真寺，因为到了晚上始终能听到清真寺的穆斯林用高音喇叭扯着嗓子唱歌。房间还算很大，厕所也非常大，还有热水提供，但房间没有网络信号，必须走到外面才有信号，房间角落有一个三角形的桌子，木头床非常大，房间有风扇和衣柜，厕所也非常大，我们整理完毕就去餐厅吃饭，大堂在酒店中央，摆放着很多桌椅，
只有一个美国单身中老年男人站在餐桌上点菜，我们也挑了一张桌子，点了鸡肉饭和意大利面条，上菜前我跑到酒店天台上看乞力马扎罗山，但云层太厚了，只看到局部的雪，不久我返回餐厅吃饭，服务员和厨师全是男的，餐厅的生意全依赖住客了，菜的分量较少，但价格不便宜，我们并没有吃饭，结账时花费15000先令，不久开始在餐厅上网，到了晚上八点多突然停电，网络断掉，只好打着手电筒清理房间，后来发现这个旅馆还是有备用电源的，房间蚊子特别多，停电半个多小时候又来电了，
我先去洗澡，脱光衣服后才发现蚊子太多了，忙喷了一些驱蚊水之后才敢洗澡，晚上21点45分左右，我穿上衣服去大堂上网，不久过来三个欧美少女，她们也跑出房间拿手机上网，看她们这些小妹妹的装备，估计都是来爬山的。摩西镇也称莫希，它是坦桑尼亚东北部的城市，是乞力马扎罗区的首府，位于非洲最高山峰乞力马扎罗山附近，有热带干湿季气候，莫希有全民小学教育，有邻近地区最高的识字率。
莫西镇是坦桑尼亚的一个综合性大镇，同样也是乞力马扎罗登山的必停留之地，在莫西镇的很多登山公司，在登山公司的辅助下，登山者才能进入乞力马扎罗山，莫西镇出名的另一个特色就是咖啡了，从欧洲引进，电影《走出非洲》里面就很好的反应出来这一特点。《走出非洲》是环球影业出品的爱情片，由西德尼波拉克执导，梅丽尔斯特里普，罗伯特雷德福等主演。
该片改编自卡伦布里克森的同名自传体小说，讲述了凯伦为了得到一个男爵夫人的称号而远嫁肯尼亚，后来她跟英国探险家邓尼斯产生感情的故事。1985年12月10日，该片在美国上映。1986年，影片获得第58届奥斯卡最佳影片、第43届美国金球奖剧情类最佳影片等奖项。
Jumbo Huang Notes, We left Conway hotel and took taxi to the crowded Ubongo bus station, and then we embarked the big bus and went to Moshi town, and took another taxi to Hartebeest View Lodge, we checked in and had dinner here, during the moment we met a men named Pius Momburi, he approached me and tried to introduce some climbing service for me, I checked his background from facebook, Linkedin, Yourtube, and I found some negative comments on this guy: 6 years ago I just went to their offices (African Spoonbill Tours and Safaris in Moshi) and the office looked legit/real. Wer'e thinking of using them as well. I did not get a hard sell from Irene (Pius' assistant).
They have a tour going out on the 28th, 2 others already taking the Machame route. Cost was $1200 for a 6 day hike.Please let me know if you found out anything (good/bad) about this agency.in 2008 somebody said their tents were bad, Lonelyplanet.com had make a judgement on this guy:16 Reasons NOT to choose African Spoonbill Tours & Safaris in Moshi, Thorn Tree forum/Country forums/Africa/Tanzania,
I digested some comments as here: Pius Momburi, Managing Director, blatantly lied to me on many aspects of my Kili trek during several pre-trip office visits. Looking back, I feel I was on the wrong trek, based on all of the false information I was given beforehand. For a group of four (I joined a family of three), we were given an inappropriate number of guide staff. Pius said we would have two guides (Dismas for the family & Aaron for me) and two assistant guides.
Initially, I thought this was a large amount of guide staff & questioned the need for this many...Pius affirmed this number was needed in case group members needed to descend at different times during the trek. I ended up being diagnosed with malaria a few days before I was originally planning to climb, and thus had plenty of time in Moshi to read two Kili guide books and do lots of company research. The guidebooks also clarified the need to have enough English-speaking guide staff to accompany AMS sufferers to lower altitudes.You can imagine my shock then when we arrived at Machame Gate, Aaron the only guide staff present! When I brought this up to Pius in my post-trek meeting, he first denied ever saying we'd have four guide staff and then, in the same breath, said Dismas was sick and he didn't have any "back-up" guide to send with us!
When I fell behind early on in the summit push, I was left in the hands of one of our PORTERS, who didn't speak English. Aaron never spoke to me or asked about my condition. He continued with the family to the summit, almost two hours ahead of my reaching it. On Day 1 of the trek, when I questioned how we would tackle the summit with only one guide, Aaron stated that he could "pick up a freelance assistant guide at the last hut to accompany our group." Apparently, all of them "were sick" too so that our welfare had to be jeopardized. I wonder what Pius did with the money we paid for our four guide staff… I was having a hard time on a reasonably easy section of the trail: chills, body aches, & fatigue had set in. Other groups' guides were stepping up to give me advice, while our guide had nothing to offer. When we arrived at camp, I read in my guidebook that I showed every symptom of malaria again, and made Aaron aware of this. He told me it was impossible that I could contract malaria again so soon after treatment. Therefore, I just attributed my symptoms to a common cold & took appropriate pain relief medication. One of the first things I did on return to Moshi was get another malaria test.
Wouldn't you know, it was positive! I summitted Kili, with malaria...something my guide downplayed as "impossible!" It turns out I had the early stages of the most deadly form. When untreated, this form can develop into the next stages within 24 hours and lead to death. Today I accessed to tanzaniatouristboard.com but could not find the guide information: We are searching for the right company to climb kilimanjaro with and we came across two websites. The Porters association of Kilimanjaro who then recommended us to the Tanzanian Tourist board website. They have a list of all the companies that are legally registered to work on Kilimanjaro and Tanzania's national parks. Many that are reviewed here on tripadvisor aren't actually on the list. So we thought we'd go via a Western company to ensure the right process was followed. We contacted WHOA Travel adventure,
they use a third party company called Tanzanian volunteerism and they are also not registered. So we are quite confused at this point and feel like not everyone is aware of this. So we thought we'd share because our safety is important to us and if the company isn't legally operating on the mountain then I am sure they cannot be responsible for us in any way. I would recommend looking into the Kilimanjaro Porters Assistance Project, an off shoot of the International Mountain Explorers Connection for their list of recommended local tour operators offering Kilimanjaro treks. The Tanzanian tourist board might not be frequently updated. Moshi is a Tanzanian municipality with a population of 184,292 according to the 2012 census.
The municipality is in the Kilimanjaro Region and is situated on the lower slopes of Mount Kilimanjaro, a dormant volcano that is the highest mountain in Africa. The municipality covers about 59 square kilometres and is the smallest municipality in Tanzania by area. Many people from the Chagga and Pare ethnic groups live in Moshi, which lies on the east-west A23 Arusha–Himo road connecting Arusha and Voi, Kenya. Just to the east of Moshi is the intersection with the B1 north–south road eventually connecting with Tanga and Dar es Salaam. Moshi is often considered the cleanest town in Tanzania.
第204回：梦一出生许给远方，负债周折登山探险
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